Vauxhall Fashon Scout: Catwalk report and interview with Shao Yen

Shao Yen is a designer with many talents. Having studied at Central Saint Martins College in 2003, interning for both Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan, as well as dressing eccentric Icelandic singer Bjork, the 28-year old Taiwanese fashion designer is not unknown to success.
 
His presentation at this weekend’s Vauxhall Fashion Scout was once again a triumphant experiment of shapes and material.
 
In the autumn/winter 12 collection at the Freemasons’ Hall in Covent Garden, it was all about formalwear inspired by sport.
 
It was British traditionalism intertwined with vibrant youth subcultures. Presenting jackets and trousers in brown checked tweed, blended with decorated, fluffy wool hoods in dark turquoise, Shao Yen introduced the Earl to the London youngster.
 
Presenting his work with models standing impressively still on white podiums accompanied by live classical music, Yen gave the audience plenty of time to soak in the relaxed atmosphere.
 
However, used to the tight schedule of fashion weeks, photographers, friends and journalists hurriedly snapped away on their cameras in what looked like unanimous admiration of his work.
 
Backstage after the show the designer explained the thought behind it: “I wanted to bring in an amount of sportswear into classic fabrics like tweed. The Olympics coming up in London this summer inspired me.”
 
From having made his BA collection completely in white and a particular affinity since then to the two extremes of the colour palette (the other one being black), Yen took a step out of his comfort zone. Orange and turquoise blue were both used to warm up the woollen capes and leather jackets.
 
Talking about his upcoming projects, Yen says he wishes to collaborate with artists – a long-time dream of his:
 
“I would like to work with stage performers. That was the reason I went into fashion, but it is something I have never done before. I have always been interested in designing for dancers for example, as it is different: you have to think of movement and flexibility creating clothes for someone that’s going to wear them on stage.”
 
His combination of old school tailoring and young comfort is an intermediary step between stiff couture and the physicality of sportswear, bringing him closer to his ambition.    

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