EMERGING FASHION DESIGNERS
Taiwanese fashion designer Shao Yen
Copyright Madelaine Triebe
Shao Yen is a designer with many talents. Having studied at Central Saint Martins College in 2003, interning for both Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan, as well as dressing eccentric Icelandic singer Bjork, the 28-year old Taiwanese fashion designer is not unknown to success.
His presentation at this weekend’s Vauxhall Fashion Scout was once again a triumphant experiment of shapes and material.
In this year’s A/W 12 collection at the Freemasons Hall in Covent Garden, it was all about formal wear inspired by sportier elements. It was British traditionalism intertwined with vibrant youth subcultures. Presenting jackets and trousers in brown checked tweed, blended with decorated wool fur hoods in dark turquoise, Shao Yen introduced the Earl to the London youngster.
Presenting his work with models standing impressively still on white podiums accompanied with live classical music, Yen gave the audience plenty of time to soak in the relaxed atmosphere. However, used to the tight schedule of fashion weeks, photographers, friends and journalists hurriedly snapped away on their cameras in what looked like unanimous admiration of his work.
His combination of old school tailoring and young comfort between stiff couture and the physicality of sportswear, was perfect for anyone who wants to dress fashionably yet casually athletic for the upcoming London Olympics.
Maarten Van Der Horst
Prints are a fundamental favourite for S/S 2012, from Mary Katrantzou to Peter Pilotto, the fashion industry is spoilt for choice. Newbie Maarten Van Der Horst is a serious print contender for established designers. Born in Holland the Central Saint Martins graduate has been adopted by Selfridges following his revitalising display of tropical prints in his graduate show.
Originally graduating with a BA in art in Holland, he travelled to Paris to do an internship with Chloé, which encouraged Maarten to carve his own path when he began at Central Saint Martins. Inspired by transvestism and escapism for A/W 11, the feel of escapism was used with pastel frilly nylon and Hawaiian prints were carried through to S/S 2012.
The Hawaiian prints exuded a holiday wardrobe but with an enhanced sophistication from nylon petticoats that were inspired by John Waters and the Dreamlanders creating cheap clothing by stealing from vintage shops. Maarten has done a wonderful job of reinventing the original 40s Hawaiian shirt. Layered appliqué petticoats over the prints and caped skirts were distressed but tailored to control the silhouette and introduce print as refined and not carry a garish attachment.
Originally graduating with a BA in art in Holland, he travelled to Paris to do an internship with Chloé, which encouraged Maarten to carve his own path when he began at Central Saint Martins. Inspired by transvestism and escapism for A/W 11, the feel of escapism was used with pastel frilly nylon and Hawaiian prints were carried through to S/S 2012.
The Hawaiian prints exuded a holiday wardrobe but with an enhanced sophistication from nylon petticoats that were inspired by John Waters and the Dreamlanders creating cheap clothing by stealing from vintage shops. Maarten has done a wonderful job of reinventing the original 40s Hawaiian shirt. Layered appliqué petticoats over the prints and caped skirts were distressed but tailored to control the silhouette and introduce print as refined and not carry a garish attachment.
(images courtesy of www.fashion156.com)
The Rodnik Band SS12 LFW
Image Courtesy of www.lfwdaily.com
The Rodnik Band's was a fusion of fashion and pop art. The ocean inspired collection, "Save The Sea", signified a fun-filled insight to a bold, yet fashionable move to re-ignite our perception of contemporary 21st century styles as energetic and forthcoming. Fashion meets Andy Warhol meets The Sex Pistols draws on conceptual designs with a strong punk rock musical influences for each piece, to take satire to 'wuthering heights' and absolutely reminds us of the love affair, that is fashion, but also to remind us about the force of fashion, as a tool to voice one's political beliefs, agendas and thoughts, and yet maintain reverence for the apparel as a medium to captivate a message embedded in his collection.
Image Courtesy of www.zeitgeistmagazine.com
Image Courtesy of www.nancyfashionfancy.blogspot.com
Far from any traditionalist, Colbert's typical choice of quintessential attire for his message for fashion-seekers to relish in the creative talent that is, The Rodnik Band, yet not forget the responsibility we have to spread the word and get involved in more concerning matters of depth and meaning.
Image Courtesy of www.zimbio.com
Gary Graham
Graduating from the Art Institute of Chicago with a degree in fashion, Gary Graham’s creative costume style is apparent in his casual and luxurious design, which captures a section of history. Graham’s aesthetic is frayed fantasy; his deconstruction of fabric by quilting, shrinking and dying an abundance of knits and silk organza lifts his collection to a more exclusive level.
Graham is attracted to the approach taken to the fabric and how it can be brought together to elevate different areas of beauty and contrast and stitch them together to represent various times and places in history. The story really is hidden in the clothes, textured and rich palettes of exuberant cloth.
A multitude of inspiration is used all within keeping of the obsession of contrast of light and dark and the elevation of beauty from darkness. During Spring 2012 the use of grandmother floral prints were embellished with neon accents, flowing organza, silk tea stained tunics and patchy lingerie. Taking inspiration in the form of Viennese sheet music, the layered organza over neon florals speaks volumes in Graham’s desire of opulence.
Most recently shown at NYFW, the Fall 2012 collection is a superb deconstruction of fabric once again, yet still manages to create a dazzling attraction. Armed with thoughts of ancient Iranian tunics, WWI naval ‘dazzle’ camouflage and his visit to Manchester’s International Theater Festival, Graham layers to perfection a patchwork of prints from different eras that are methodically effective and visually engaging. Layering dark printed silk tunics over acid neon and frayed bottoms. The wonderful separates invite you to guess where the designer travelled to in history and impose them as part of his collection.
Graham has introduced obstinate grace through his garments.
(images courtesy of www.style.com)
Graham is attracted to the approach taken to the fabric and how it can be brought together to elevate different areas of beauty and contrast and stitch them together to represent various times and places in history. The story really is hidden in the clothes, textured and rich palettes of exuberant cloth.
A multitude of inspiration is used all within keeping of the obsession of contrast of light and dark and the elevation of beauty from darkness. During Spring 2012 the use of grandmother floral prints were embellished with neon accents, flowing organza, silk tea stained tunics and patchy lingerie. Taking inspiration in the form of Viennese sheet music, the layered organza over neon florals speaks volumes in Graham’s desire of opulence.
Most recently shown at NYFW, the Fall 2012 collection is a superb deconstruction of fabric once again, yet still manages to create a dazzling attraction. Armed with thoughts of ancient Iranian tunics, WWI naval ‘dazzle’ camouflage and his visit to Manchester’s International Theater Festival, Graham layers to perfection a patchwork of prints from different eras that are methodically effective and visually engaging. Layering dark printed silk tunics over acid neon and frayed bottoms. The wonderful separates invite you to guess where the designer travelled to in history and impose them as part of his collection.
Graham has introduced obstinate grace through his garments.
(images courtesy of www.style.com)
Danish Fashion: Stine Goya
Much to the detriment of my university work and sleep, lately I have become obsessed with two excellent Danish dramas, The Killing and Borgen. Recently commissioned by BBC4, the dramas feature excellent acting, gripping storylines and engaging female lead characters. And, they have received huge audiences in the UK and abroad. After browsing through pictures of Copenhagen’s Fashion Week, held at the beginning of February, it soon became apparent that television is not the only creative industry in which the Danes are excelling. In addition to familiar Danish labels such as Stine Ladefoged and Henrik Vibskov, I discovered Stine Goya, her brilliant new AW 12 collection and its structured, daring designs.
In a dark colour palette accentuated by hues of bright yellow, the collection showed an extensive range of separates, from charcoal architectural jackets to simultaneously lux and grungy velvet skirts. Stine’s label is recognised for its wearable designs with unique prints and special details, and this new outing adhered to this signature style. A grey geometric print was shown on minimal wrap dresses alongside gold embroidery on knitwear. Silk wide-legged trousers and loose silhouettes were complimented by tough, leather jackets to create relaxed but edgy garments.
Prior to establishing her eponymous label in 2006, Stine completed a degree in fashion and print design at Central St. Martins and worked as the editor of Danish fashion magazine, Cover. Aiming to influence the direction of Scandinavian fashion, Stine’s designs are widely appreciated and renowned in Denmark, where she has gained numerous awards.
A report from TellusFashion on Copenhagen’s Fashion Week can be read here. More information about Stine Goya can be found at www.stinegoya.com.
(Images courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week)
Israeli designer duo Sister M
© Copyright Ilan Porat
Runway show S/S 2012
© Copyright Sophie Gost
Sister M studio Florentin, Tel Aviv
© Copyright Sophie Gost
Sister M accessories
Sister M is a brand impervious to the kind of commercialism that kills the spirit of creativity. As an alternative to a big business, it’s instead an Israeli designer label, where two sisters jointly create colourful, wearable and ethnic-inspired pieces.
The designer duo debuted at the first ever Tel Aviv Fashion Week last year, showcasing a collection inspired by cultures from all over the world. The result was a runway show filled with long flowing dresses and skirts, accompanied with statement jewelleries.
I caught up with them in their studio in Florentine, a trendy industrial neighbourhood in south Tel Aviv, to talk about what their inspirations are, the Tel Aviv fashion scene and how it is working together as sisters.
“Our influence for design of course comes from Israel, but also from all kind of places and cultures. Funky, ethnic, we like it all”, says Meital Mitrani, 33, and the older of the two, while showing me around the tidily structured racks of vibrant-coloured dresses, loose-fitted blouses and accessories.
The clothes in the studio are all wearable, casual, and comfortable. It's an eclectic mix of the Tel Aviv fashion scene: cosmopolitan and fun, yet casual and smart.
Meital continues: “But mainly our inspiration comes from within ourselves. We grew up in a very artistic house. Our mother studied fashion, so she was always designing garments.”
She explains how it contributed to the her and her sister trying out their skills on plastic long-legged American miniature mannequins: “Our mother always had the sewing machine out, so since a very young age, Rahya and I designed clothes for our Barbie dolls”.
Sharing the same genetic heritage has also lead to an uncanny similarity in taste: “I can walk into a fabric store and pick out a pattern, and then Rahya can go into the same shop and pick out the exact same textile.”
Although working together and being alike in many ways, there are also differences. Rahya majored in fashion design at Shenkar Academy, while Meital has a degree in fashion wear and objects from Beazalel Acadamy. Together they merge their two points of views into a unanimous philosophy that fashion always should unforeseen and enjoyable.
To find out more, please visit Sister M's website.
Adrian Wu
With seven collections under his belt at the age of just 21, Adrian Wu has established his aesthetic with the Canadian fashion community in only two years. Wu can be described somewhat as an overnight sensation, originally on a different path at first, aged 18 he had been studying to become a sexologist at the University of Toronto. Wu decided to learn how to sew in his mother’s basement and in 2010 he created his own design company.
Showing his Spring 2012 collection at LG Fashion Week in Toronto was a fearless display of an original concept. Fascinated by Quantum Physics, Wu used the “double slit theory’ as stimulus, corresponding matter and energy to waves and particles. Naming the show ‘Creatures of the Photons’ the colour and orbs used were a progression of all of Wu’s interests. Heavily influenced by fine art, history, and the limitation that sex holds over people, Wu lures his passions into his designs. It almost seemed to adopt Darwin’s theory of evolution, as the unfinished look on some models evolves to a breath-taking climax of ruffles and androgyny; the towering heels are metaphorical seedlings that flower upwards.
Wu is already much talked about in the Canadian press and is fast becoming one of the most interesting designers to watch. With an invite to show his Fall 2012 collection in Paris it seems the French is embracing Wu as a gender boundary breaker in style.
Wu is unconventional in his influence and his design, wishing to change the silhouette of gender is problematic, yet taking on the challenge will no doubt make Adrian Wu a prominent part of fashion history.
(images courtesy of www.flare.com)
Showing his Spring 2012 collection at LG Fashion Week in Toronto was a fearless display of an original concept. Fascinated by Quantum Physics, Wu used the “double slit theory’ as stimulus, corresponding matter and energy to waves and particles. Naming the show ‘Creatures of the Photons’ the colour and orbs used were a progression of all of Wu’s interests. Heavily influenced by fine art, history, and the limitation that sex holds over people, Wu lures his passions into his designs. It almost seemed to adopt Darwin’s theory of evolution, as the unfinished look on some models evolves to a breath-taking climax of ruffles and androgyny; the towering heels are metaphorical seedlings that flower upwards.
Wu is already much talked about in the Canadian press and is fast becoming one of the most interesting designers to watch. With an invite to show his Fall 2012 collection in Paris it seems the French is embracing Wu as a gender boundary breaker in style.
Wu is unconventional in his influence and his design, wishing to change the silhouette of gender is problematic, yet taking on the challenge will no doubt make Adrian Wu a prominent part of fashion history.
(images courtesy of www.flare.com)
Corrie Nielsen
Image Courtesy of www.girlamode.co.uk
Chosen by John Galliano as the winner of Fashion Fringe 2010, Corrie Nielsen's, second season was a show-stopper of carefully crafted pieces of Japanese inspired aesthetics, which has catapulted her into a worldwide phenomenon; and this is only her second season at LFW.
Image Courtesy of www.thestylepa.com
An amalgamation of androgynous tailoring with striking folds and razor sharp pleats supported with high neck lines and ruffled collars, inspired by Oscar Wilde's gothic novel, 'The Picture of Dorian Gray', her work is an insightful look at architectural structure creating a dramatic trademark.
Image Courtesy of www.redesignforlife.blogspot.com
Truly inspirational, a clear vision of the confident yet stylishly chic 21st Century woman, her collection provides a telescope into the future of the commercial work of Corrie Nielsen.
Image Courtesy of www.thestylepa.com
Suzanne Rae
Parsons school of design graduate Suzanne Rae not only holds design credentials, but an economics degree from Bryn Mawr College where she studied art history and women’s studies. Suzanne Rae began her professional career in the New York art gallery scene, which transcended to design ateliers of Costume National in Milan and Morgane Le Fay in New York. Based in Brooklyn, Rae’s line is made for the progressive and contemporary woman; she does this by adopting a feminine look with a feminist attitude.
Inspired by 19th century Japan for her Spring/Summer 2012 collection, the aesthetic was romantic but quirky and masculine. Although the models swept down the runway in billowing silk dresses, the feminine look was drawn back with dark sunglasses and Tai chi slippers; evoking a comfortable but ethereal guise. Working with photographer Renato D’Agostin to craft pixilated prints to use for her garments infused a consideration of colours worthy of a Japanese garden.
Rae is capable of producing traditional garments but adding modernity with the construction; by taking fine and natural fabric and ensuring draping and patterns are tailored to expose the natural form of femininity. Showing a skirt that embodies her feminine but feminist vision was not difficult when the mullet skirt separated both visions; from a short front to a cascading length of fabric at the back, it was beautiful but practical.
Suzanne Rae’s design brief is delicate and powerful but has a fierceness that is capable of repelling assumptions of its beauty.
Inspired by 19th century Japan for her Spring/Summer 2012 collection, the aesthetic was romantic but quirky and masculine. Although the models swept down the runway in billowing silk dresses, the feminine look was drawn back with dark sunglasses and Tai chi slippers; evoking a comfortable but ethereal guise. Working with photographer Renato D’Agostin to craft pixilated prints to use for her garments infused a consideration of colours worthy of a Japanese garden.
Rae is capable of producing traditional garments but adding modernity with the construction; by taking fine and natural fabric and ensuring draping and patterns are tailored to expose the natural form of femininity. Showing a skirt that embodies her feminine but feminist vision was not difficult when the mullet skirt separated both visions; from a short front to a cascading length of fabric at the back, it was beautiful but practical.
Suzanne Rae’s design brief is delicate and powerful but has a fierceness that is capable of repelling assumptions of its beauty.
(images courtesy of www.suzannerae.com)
British Actress Sophie Wu models for Christopher Waller
Christopher Waller’s AW 12/13 collection is off to a spectacular start, with the successful British actress, Sophie Wu, as the face of its campaign. Renowned for her role in ‘Kick-Ass’, Wu was photographed by Pettri Haggren in the new, much-anticipated collection.
The designer at the helm, Simon Christopher Waller, stated “Sophie’s style and look was a perfect match for the brand and could easily be compared to the initial muse for the season – Jean Seberg – in the French film ‘Breathless’. Working with an actress like Sophie gives the pieces further character. It’s exciting to work with creative people from outside the fashion industry and I will do it for future seasons.”
After gaining experience with John Richmond, Waller established his label in 2010, striving to provide women with his signature boyish and chic designs. In a minimal neutral palette of complimentary whites, greys and petrol, the new collection exhibits a broad range of wearable pieces from leather panelled outerwear to elegant evening dresses that utilise Japanese laces alongside digitally printed silks.
This collection builds on an equally impressive SS 12 collection that also features clean lines and flattering silhouettes. ‘A Shot Across the Bows’ exudes quality, inspired by the luxurious glamour of the Cote d’Azur in the late 80s and early 90s. Flowing silk crepe was combined with soft jersey in classic navy and dusky pink accentuated by sapphire blue, making for a desirable, minimal collection. Tailoring was kept unstructured and chic, with slim cigarette trousers paired with simple tees.
With all the design, production and sampling carried out for the label in London, Christopher Waller is a truly exciting emerging British brand.
More information can be found at www.christopherwaller.com and www.christopherwaller.tumblr.com.
(Images courtesy of Christopher Waller)
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