Fashion has always given designers the ability to dream and use their imagination to create a story through their garments; so it was a perfect fit for a storyteller to be inspired by another. The fascination with fairy tales lay heavy on designers for 2012. Fashion giants such as Oscar de la Renta sent billowing gowns down the runway, blood red dresses at Valentino; even beauty was influenced, with doll braiding on honeyed hair.
With the release of Snow White and the Huntsman on June 1^st and Mirror, Mirror in cinemas now, the lavish costumes created for both films have encouraged two opposite looks for the same Brother’s Grimm Snow White fairy tale.
 
Traditional and bright or glamorous and gritty?

    

TellusFashion picks - Red draped evening dress by Agnieszka Swiatly - £530. Black net cocktail dress by Khukhuz - £60.

Sisters Kristen and Alexandra O’Neil took a lot of inspiration from their upbringing for their collections. Sharing a bedroom with bright floral patterns on every exposed area, they used the type of patterns that guests wore to their grandparents’ garden parties. All structured with a fifties and sixties silhouettes, it filtered wearable pieces that were nostalgic also.
 

Known as an all American sportswear label, their take on summer 2012 was majorly pastels, in essence of garden parties. Sticking to classic femininity, the use of buttercup yellow and geranium silk with beading and collared tailoring showcased a simple but elegant take on femininity.
 

The transformation for Fall 2012 was quite androgynous in comparison to prior seasons. Balanced prettier details were grunged up with strong leather pieces and cut outs on girly dresses to make them more striking than sweet. An assortment of rich soothing colours like bronze, orange, and different shades of purples were harmonized with soft make-up and hair to bring down the boldness. Texturized garments showed the thought that went into the collection; the craftsmanship of each separate is beautiful quality; allowing the clothes to work as a complete look or as a starting piece to build upon.
 

All American in notion, the O’Neil sisters have freshened the vision and enriched its capabilities with a gentle prod to creating sophistication through using comparison and unexpected colours.
 
(images courtesy of www.fashionologie.com)
 

Learning from Oscar de la Renta and Tom Ford after his graduation from Central Saint Martins, Wes Gordon acquired substantial skills to bring notoriety to his own name with his debut collection. Taking The Fashion Group International’s ‘Rising Star Award’ in January 2012 it is clear that many think of him as a powerful presence in the industry.

Summer 2012 grew around his fascination with Kate Middleton, yet fall 2012 was darker and more absorbed in romance. Referencing Rooney Mara in Great Expectations, the collection was enchanted with elegance but edged with an essence of ‘bite’ so to speak; the attitude that Rooney Mara has in Dragon Tattoo was sewn into the clothes.  

Although etched in toughness with chainmail accessories there were glimpses of fairy tale moments, the undone luxury was stretched with attention to detail on luxe fabrics. The assortment of colours were thoughtfully played against each other to create a dynamic look, leopard brocade, emerald green satin, a palette of exuberant clothes that shone with class and excitement.

There were indulgent separates in billowing silk, brocade patterned flares and white satin t shirts, paired with oxblood pants and organza blouses tumbling over them. Ultimately, the silhouettes were dramatized with structured shoulders and tailored Edwardian technique, to create a dark, romantic feel for a young designer’s vision; to bring together old and new.

(images courtesy of www.stylebistro.com)
 

London based Turkish designer Bora Aksu has been a NEWGEN recipient four times since his graduation from Central Saint Martins in 2002. Hailed as a star during his debut show, the APR group went on to give him sponsorship and LFW gave him a spot for the coming season. It was when Dolmenico Dolce and Stefano Gabanna purchased pieces to inspire their own collection that you could see Bora has something special.

Bora’s philosophy is all about contrast; his creations of romantic darkness delve into his natural will to create a narrative in his clothes. Taking inspiration from stories for his previous collections, Bora also in part took old Edwardian techniques and used the structured dressing integrated with romance. For Fall/Winter 2012, Bora took inspiration from Henry Darger’s tale ‘In the Realms of the Unreal’ in which characters called the ‘Vivian Girls’ grew in strength from their innocence, Bora played between the reality and the fantasy. Mainly through colour the story was told, soft greys were enchanted with baroque detailing, it then transcended into billowing colours of acid orange and striking fuchsia. It showed a growth in the clothes as Bora recognised in the innocent girls he
used as his inspiration.

The collection overall holds a hazy edge of a fairy tale, the bow details, heavy organza and complex baroque with black headpieces grew into floating material in fiery acid colours with alluring black; allowing for a dark but dreamy display of Bora’s contrast.  

(images courtesy of www.vogue.it and www.fashion156.com)
 

Designing clothes since the age of 10, Anthony Vaccarello went on to study fashion at La Cambre School in Brussels. Born in Belgian to Italian parents the family lived in Paris where Anthony’s passion for design kicked in. The designer was fortunate enough to work for Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi specialising in fur after completing his studies. However, in 2006 Vaccarello won the Hyères fashion competition and his manipulation of garments truly wowed the fashion insiders.


Pastels and sorbets are everywhere on the runways, so for Vaccarello to focus on the intricate dark folds on statement jackets made a vivid impression for spring. The inspiration he took from knowing strong women came through in his collection. All tight, body-conscious, strong black looks with cut outs that emphasised parts of the body were sexy but sporty also.

Taking Herb Ritts’ expression of the body in his genius photography, and using it as his muse; Vaccarello instructed the garments into a fluid and flowing silhouette tightly fitted to the body. Almost swimsuit-like the asymmetrically cut garments were stretched to fit, sometimes sheer in places to bring his racy look together.

Simplicity in sporty detail was a major added extra to the collection; the opacity to the body beneath struck the right balance between strikingly beautiful and shockingly glamorous.

(images courtesy of (www.style.com)
 

Brooklyn-based designer Degen originally wanted to use her original knitwear graduate collection for wall art but however impractical to wear, her quirkiness shone through. Taught how to knit by her grandmother when she was 6, she began knitting for up to 12 hours a day whilst in high school. It was her upbringing in Cincinnati with her conservative scientist parents that encouraged her to use her collection as a response of sexual repression growing up.
 
Whilst studying at the Rhode Island school of design and Central Saint Martins her use of late night studio sessions encouraged others to know her intention was to create openness about nudity and ability for others to feel comfortable about it.
 
Although her debut collection was called knitwear lingerie the collection wasn’t particularly sexy, it was more playful and peep show with intricately placed cut outs on undergarments. Crop tops, boy shorts and flesh coloured tops with knitted nipples attached were inspired by the human anatomy.
 
For Degen’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection the extension to more garments gave more coverage but still adopted the designer’s signature cut outs on knitted leggings and crop tops. The military theme used was revived with acid orange and neutrals. Degen’s enthusiasm for using anatomy in her designs can only bring more original aspect to her future collections.
 
(images courtesy of www.modacycle.com)

Prints are a fundamental favourite for S/S 2012, from Mary Katrantzou to Peter Pilotto, the fashion industry is spoilt for choice. Newbie Maarten Van Der Horst is a serious print contender for established designers. Born in Holland the Central Saint Martins graduate has been adopted by Selfridges following his revitalising display of tropical prints in his graduate show.
 
Originally graduating with a BA in art in Holland, he travelled to Paris to do an internship with Chloé, which encouraged Maarten to carve his own path when he began at Central Saint Martins. Inspired by transvestism and escapism for A/W 11, the feel of escapism was used with pastel frilly nylon and Hawaiian prints were carried through to S/S 2012. 
 
The Hawaiian prints exuded a holiday wardrobe but with an enhanced sophistication from nylon petticoats that were inspired by John Waters and the Dreamlanders creating cheap clothing by stealing from vintage shops. Maarten has done a wonderful job of reinventing the original 40s Hawaiian shirt. Layered appliqué petticoats over the prints and caped skirts were distressed but tailored to control the silhouette and introduce print as refined and not carry a garish attachment. 

(images courtesy of www.fashion156.com)  
 

Graduating from the Art Institute of Chicago with a degree in fashion, Gary Graham’s creative costume style is apparent in his casual and luxurious design, which captures a section of history. Graham’s aesthetic is frayed fantasy; his deconstruction of fabric by quilting, shrinking and dying an abundance of knits and silk organza lifts his collection to a more exclusive level.
 
Graham is attracted to the approach taken to the fabric and how it can be brought together to elevate different areas of beauty and contrast and stitch them together to represent various times and places in history. The story really is hidden in the clothes, textured and rich palettes of exuberant cloth.
 
A multitude of inspiration is used all within keeping of the obsession of contrast of light and dark and the elevation of beauty from darkness. During Spring 2012 the use of grandmother floral prints were embellished with neon accents, flowing organza, silk tea stained tunics and patchy lingerie. Taking inspiration in the form of Viennese sheet music, the layered organza over neon florals speaks volumes in Graham’s desire of opulence.
 
Most recently shown at NYFW, the Fall 2012 collection is a superb deconstruction of fabric once again, yet still manages to create a dazzling attraction. Armed with thoughts of ancient Iranian tunics, WWI naval ‘dazzle’ camouflage and his visit to Manchester’s International Theater Festival, Graham layers to perfection a patchwork of prints from different eras that are methodically effective and visually engaging. Layering dark printed silk tunics over acid neon and frayed bottoms. The wonderful separates invite you to guess where the designer travelled to in history and impose them as part of his collection.
 
Graham has introduced obstinate grace through his garments.
 
(images courtesy of www.style.com) 

With seven collections under his belt at the age of just 21, Adrian Wu has established his aesthetic with the Canadian fashion community in only two years. Wu can be described somewhat as an overnight sensation, originally on a different path at first, aged 18 he had been studying to become a sexologist at the University of Toronto. Wu decided to learn how to sew in his mother’s basement and in 2010 he created his own design company.  

Showing his Spring 2012 collection at LG Fashion Week in Toronto was a fearless display of an original concept. Fascinated by Quantum Physics, Wu used the “double slit theory’ as stimulus, corresponding matter and energy to waves and particles. Naming the show ‘Creatures of the Photons’ the colour and orbs used were a progression of all of Wu’s interests. Heavily influenced by fine art, history, and the limitation that sex holds over people, Wu lures his passions into his designs. It almost seemed to adopt Darwin’s theory of evolution, as the unfinished look on some models evolves to a breath-taking climax of ruffles and androgyny; the towering heels are metaphorical seedlings that flower upwards.
 
Wu is already much talked about in the Canadian press and is fast becoming one of the most interesting designers to watch. With an invite to show his Fall 2012 collection in Paris it seems the French is embracing Wu as a gender boundary breaker in style.
 
Wu is unconventional in his influence and his design, wishing to change the silhouette of gender is problematic, yet taking on the challenge will no doubt make Adrian Wu a prominent part of fashion history.
 
(images courtesy of www.flare.com)

Parsons school of design graduate Suzanne Rae not only holds design credentials, but an economics degree from Bryn Mawr College where she studied art history and women’s studies. Suzanne Rae began her professional career in the New York art gallery scene, which transcended to design ateliers of Costume National in Milan and Morgane Le Fay in New York. Based in Brooklyn, Rae’s line is made for the progressive and contemporary woman; she does this by adopting a feminine look with a feminist attitude.
 
Inspired by 19^th century Japan for her Spring/Summer 2012 collection, the aesthetic was romantic but quirky and masculine. Although the models swept down the runway in billowing silk dresses, the feminine look was drawn back with dark sunglasses and Tai chi slippers; evoking a comfortable but ethereal guise. Working with photographer Renato D’Agostin to craft pixilated prints to use for her garments infused a consideration of colours worthy of a Japanese garden.

Rae is capable of producing traditional garments but adding modernity with the construction; by taking fine and natural fabric and ensuring draping and patterns are tailored to expose the natural form of femininity. Showing a skirt that embodies her feminine but feminist vision was not difficult when the mullet skirt separated both visions; from a short front to a cascading length of fabric at the back, it was beautiful but practical.

Suzanne Rae’s design brief is delicate and powerful but has a fierceness that is capable of repelling assumptions of its beauty. 

(images courtesy of www.suzannerae.com)