The designers at Milan Fashion Week always show a degree of refined sophistication in their collections; strong silhouettes are created in luxurious fabrics.  Designer, Chicca Lualdi, demonstrated an innate sense of this sophistication in her new A/W 12 collection, exhibited on the final day of Milan’s enthralling, opulent shows.

Free from commercial restraints, Chicca’s independent label, BeeQueen, was established in 2009, intending to provide forward-thinking women with modern, sartorial clothing.  From a family of renowned interior designers and architects, Chicca’s creativity and extensive knowledge of design is evident in the clean lines and meticulous finishing of her garments.

 

With experience for fashion and design companies including Aeffe, Etro and Cruciani, Chicca also knows how to make her clothing appealing to fashion buyers; her first collection won the Fashion Incubator Contest from the CNMI (Italian Chamber of Fashion) and now, her latest collections are commonly seen in many department stores, such as Saks.

 

This A/W 12 collection was a classy affair: skinny, cigarette trousers were cut in metallic fabric, opaque blouses were unashamedly feminine and dresses were short and flirty.  As the garments shifted from prim to gothic glamour, the colour palette progressed from iridescent sliver countered by  pastel pink, to deep plum and stark black.  Chicca proved her adept eye for detail, with unusual touches to the collection: peplum-waists were worn with pencil skirts, whilst faux fur was carefully used on boxy, neat tops and the sleeves of blazers.

The collection was shown alongside three other emerging independent labels, coinciding with Milan’s Next Generation show  and New Upcoming Designers show.  To read more about this, go here.  More information about Chicca can be found at www.beequeen.it.

(Images courtesy of Elle.co.uk)

Nova Chiu, a Chinese emerging designer who only graduated from the  London College of Fashion last year, showed her designs for the first time at London Fashion Week as part of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch show.  Alongside Heohwan Simultion, Anne Sofie Madsen and Myrza de Muynck, Nova exhibited her vibrant and original A/W 12 collection last week.

Inspired by the ethnic groups in the Shangri-La region of China, this new collection from Nova is based on her recent graduate collection, Shangri-Ladida, which received many accolades and awards including the Collection of the Year Award from the London College of Fashion.

However, this time she had a little help from designer Jeff Archer who she met whilst interning at Anna Sui; his New York style is evident in the collection’s flashes of neon and eighties silhouettes.   His influence ensures the collection confidently explores the juxtaposition of east and west: motif sweatshirts feature alongside dragon parasols, patterned leggings are embellished with rich embroidery.

Like many LFW designers including Mary Katrantzou, Nova shows an exemplary use of pattern; prints of farm animals, florals and geometric shapes are clashed in the wide range of separates, from jumpsuits to pleated peplum skirts.  She is also very experimental in her production of these prints, by digitally rendering nylon and by painting Chinese ink onto cotton.  Depth and texture were also added to the garments with a playful use of bright red and yellow faux fur and meticulous brocade. 

  
With internships for Richard Nicoll, Anna Sui and Matthew Williamson, Nova’s short career is already established and successful.  This collection is certainly engaging and fun, there is no doubt she will be showing at LFW in the future.

More information can be found at www.novachiu.co.uk.

(Images courtesy of the London College of Fashion
 

The fashion weeks of New York, London, Paris and Milan provide the opportunity for new designers to establish themselves alongside the heavyweight designers.  Last week, Suzanne Rae, an emerging designer from Brooklyn, shined on the runways of New York Fashion Week.  Whilst Suzanne only debuted her exquisite designs two years ago, her A/W 12 collection was dramatic, eye-catching and bold; she is now a firm favourite with buyers, press and fashionistas alike.

With its experimental draping alongside traditional silhouettes, the new collection adhered to Suzanne’s design aesthetic, which is aimed towards modern, forward-thinking woman.   Inspired by the free nature of Jim Morrison, Aldous Huxley, and William Blake, the collection was poetic with a rock and roll edge.

Sweeping hemlines in jewel colours flowed down the runway alongside sleek jumpsuits. Sheer chiffon blouses were combined with rich, brown leather; beautiful natural fabrics such as velvet and wool were used to ensure the garments appeared luxurious.  The collection also featured unique hand-screened  prints of wood and fur continuing the natural theme, these prints were a collaboration between local artists and Suzanne. 

In addition to utilising local artists, Suzanne also uses sustainable fabric and her designs are only produced in the garment district of New York, ensuring she is supporting the local fashion industry.  The designer states that “without the garment district, local emerging designers, and even established designers who started out in New York, would not have been able to realise their designs and contribute to the American fashion industry.”  And, Suzanne’s  A/W 12 collection was certainly a great contribution to New York Fashion Week.

 

For more information about Suzanne and her S/S 12 collection from TellusFashion click here.  Further information can be found at www.suzannerae.com.

(Images courtesy of Getty Images, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week)

Much to the detriment of my university work and sleep, lately I have become obsessed with two excellent Danish dramas, The Killing and Borgen.  Recently commissioned by BBC4, the dramas feature excellent acting, gripping storylines and engaging female lead characters. And, they have received huge audiences in the UK and abroad. After browsing through pictures of Copenhagen’s Fashion Week, held at the beginning of February, it soon became apparent that television is not the only creative industry in which the Danes are excelling.  In addition to familiar Danish labels such as Stine Ladefoged and Henrik Vibskov, I discovered Stine Goya, her brilliant new AW 12 collection and its structured, daring designs.

In a dark colour palette accentuated by hues of bright yellow, the collection showed an extensive range of separates, from charcoal architectural jackets to simultaneously lux and grungy velvet skirts.  Stine’s label is recognised for its wearable designs with unique prints and special details, and this new outing adhered to this signature style.  A grey geometric print was shown on minimal wrap dresses alongside gold embroidery on knitwear. Silk wide-legged trousers and loose silhouettes were complimented by tough, leather jackets to create relaxed but edgy garments.   

Prior to establishing her eponymous label in 2006, Stine completed a degree in fashion and print design at Central St. Martins and worked as the editor of Danish fashion magazine, Cover. Aiming to influence the direction of Scandinavian fashion, Stine’s designs are widely appreciated and renowned in Denmark, where she has gained numerous awards. 

A report from TellusFashion on Copenhagen’s Fashion Week can be read here.  More information about Stine Goya can be found at www.stinegoya.com.

(Images courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week)

Christopher Waller’s AW 12/13 collection is off to a spectacular start, with the successful British actress, Sophie Wu, as the face of its campaign. Renowned for her role in ‘Kick-Ass’, Wu was photographed by Pettri Haggren in the new, much-anticipated collection.

The designer at the helm, Simon Christopher Waller, stated “Sophie’s style and look was a perfect match for the brand and could easily be compared to the initial muse for the season – Jean Seberg – in the French film ‘Breathless’.  Working with an actress like Sophie gives the pieces further character.  It’s exciting to work with creative people from outside the fashion industry and I will do it for future seasons.”

After gaining experience with John Richmond, Waller established his label in 2010, striving to provide women with his signature boyish and chic designs.  In a minimal neutral palette of complimentary whites, greys and petrol, the new collection exhibits a broad range of wearable pieces from leather panelled outerwear to elegant evening dresses that utilise Japanese laces alongside digitally printed silks. 

This collection builds on an equally impressive SS 12 collection that also features clean lines and flattering silhouettes. ‘A Shot Across the Bows’ exudes quality, inspired by the luxurious glamour of the Cote d’Azur in the late 80s and early 90s. Flowing silk crepe was combined with soft jersey in classic navy and dusky pink accentuated by sapphire blue, making for a desirable, minimal collection.  Tailoring was kept unstructured and chic, with slim cigarette trousers paired with simple tees.

 

With all the design, production and sampling carried out for the label in London, Christopher Waller is a truly exciting emerging British brand.

More information can be found at www.christopherwaller.com and www.christopherwaller.tumblr.com.

(Images courtesy of Christopher Waller)

As London Fashion Week quickly approaches, with its highly anticipated wealth of new talent, for my post this week I would like to reminisce and remind us about an exceptional emerging designer, who showcased his designs last year.  Amidst the established, heavyweight designers, Chinese-born Huishan Zhang presented his elegant and refined S/S 12 collection.

A Central St Martins graduate, with incredible experience working in Dior’s Couture atelier, Huishan combines modern Western influences with his traditional Chinese heritage to create truly inspiring, informed collections. By using strong silhouettes that emphasise the feminine contour, his global designs cater for a confident and cultured woman. 

Accentuated by subtle, intricate detailing and embellishments, Huishan’s latest collection featured gowns with asymmetric lines alongside flirtatious cocktail dresses, all exhibiting a unique use of layering.  In particular, a vivid tangerine dress is revealed underneath a sheer maxi skirt with exquisite beading.  Micro-mini dresses with fun, ruffled skirts showed a more playful side to the collection.

Utilising silk organza and lace, Huishan creates luxurious collections with beautiful detailing and Chinese elements. And as a winner of NEWGEN sponsorship, his next collection will undoubtedly be as impressive.

(Images courtesy of Vogue.co.uk)

Based in Glasgow, designer Rebecca Torres is certainly one to watch; in 2008, she was shortlisted in Vice magazine’s ‘Creative 30’, which highlighted 30 of the UK’s most innovative young talents under the age of 30. Since then, her stylish and highly feminine label, Rebecca Torres, has grown remarkably with editorial coverage in a variety of publications including Grazia and Cosmopolitan.  More recently, Rebecca has enjoyed great success with sell-out collections on Asos.
 
In a vibrant colour palette, Rebecca’s latest Spring/Summer offering draws inspiration from confident heroines, with the collection named after Bilistiche, a classic Greek heroine. Indicative of her label and previous designs, this collection celebrates the female form, featuring figure-hugging, fluid silhouettes, enhanced by cleverly-placed paneling.
 
With photos from her new collection, here is a short interview with the designer in her own words.

How did you begin your career in fashion?
I studied Fashion Design and Manufacturing at Cardonald College in Glasgow and furthered my education by obtaining a Bachelor of Arts Degree in Fashion Business at Caledonian University.   After graduating in 2007, I worked in London with designer/stylist Nova Dando.  During that time, I learned so much, which filled me with the confidence to create my own label – REBECCA TORRES
 
How would you describe your label?
I would have to describe it as active, feminine and sleek.

 
Tell me about your latest collection. What is the inspiration behind it?
The inspiration behind each collection can vary dramatically, from everyday events to exposure of different forms of art. I suppose what is a constant throughout the creative process is that I keep an open mind and allow inspiration to come naturally. I make sure that I don’t shut myself off by only exposing myself to the medium that I have chosen to work in, that is to say fashion, for example my last two collections were mainly influenced by the 1984 Olympics and female superheroes.

Which other designers do you admire?
I really admire designers like Gareth Pugh and Manish Arora who are both very experimental but in very different ways. I love Gareth for his structure and simplicity, it always looks sharp and clean and Manish Arora for his burst of colour within his collections.

What’s your favourite thing about working in fashion? 
Being able to create a brand and style that people want to have. I love coming up with ideas and seeing them transform from paper into a real product. I find it very exciting.

What’s your proudest moment to date?  
It would be having people from all over the world posting their pictures on my Facebook page wearing my designs. That gives me a great sense of achievement and keeps me going forward.

 
What do you hope to achieve in the future?
I would like to expand the brand into different avenues like menswear and swimwear but we have to wait and see as I have so much other things in the pipeline right now…. I can’t say what at the moment though.

If you weren’t designing, what would you be doing?
I always knew at a young age that I wanted to be involved in fashion in some way, so I guess I would have persued being a dancer. I went to a few classes when I was young and loved it. I definitely would have still been drawn to something creative.

Rebecca’s latest collection is available from February.  More information can be found at www.torresincolour.co.uk.

(Images courtesy of Rebecca Torres)

Ellery is fast becoming a prominent brand here in the UK as well as the US and Australia, where the label originates. Kym Ellery is the designer at the helm; she has acquired an immense amount of experience in the industry, from completing a certificate in Fashion Design in Perth to spending a summer studying Fashion Illustration at Central St. Martins, before working within the creative team for Russh, a leading, innovative fashion magazine in Australia. 

Kym then established Ellery, her avant-garde inspired label with garments that are architectural, minimalist and chic.  From simple tapered trousers in metallic fabric and tough, leather separates to flowing maxi skirts and draped trousers, Ellery’s latest collection was a hybrid of rock n’ roll attitude and laid-back urban style.   It encompassed a myriad of separates in a neutral yet well-employed colour palette that was enhanced by flashes of leopard and metallic prints. Silhouettes varied, with structural, longline coats and extreme, voluminous dresses.

Ellery’s status is growing as a renowned Australian label: Kym’s unveiling of new collections at Australian Fashion Week is a must-see and she has been inundated with requests from US Vogue, Harpers and Madonna’s stylist amongst others.  As her website cleverly suggests, “Ellery is fast-tracking from the one to watch to the one everybody wants.”

More information can be found at www.elleryland.com.

(Images courtesy of Elleryland.com)

Whimsical, delicate, romantic and feminine: these are a few words that can be used to describe Kelly Love’s new Spring/Summer 2012 collection, Pocket Full O' Posies.

Whilst living and working in Japan for fashion designer Sin Nakayamal, Kelly’s dream of owning her own label took hold and so, the Australian designer returned to Sydney to study fashion at KVB Institute of Technology. Kelly then established her eponymous label in 2007 at Australian Fashion Week in the New Generations Show. The inaugural collection, Beautiful Side of Everything, demonstrated Kelly's innate sense of style and femininity with the collection’s showcasing of flattering silhouettes in rich fabrics and colours.  

         

In a pretty palette of dusty rose and olive green, the SS12 collection takes inspiration from favorite childhood pastimes such as reading fairytales, singing nursery rhymes and having picnics whilst simultaneously referencing 1930s cocktail parties and vintage fashion.  By utilising light fabrics such as jacquard silk, French lace and crochet, the collection has a certain airiness to it that seems effortless and dreamy.

         

As Kelly's website suggests, the label is essentially a homage to old world glamour and so, the collection features a variety of classic silhouettes and pieces from refined blouses, to full-skirt dresses, to demure camisoles, all styled with playful, retro sunglasses.  In particular, a standout piece in the collection is the silk jumpsuit (shown below); its exquisite floral, blush-pink print is reminiscent of an impressionist painting.

Kelly’s designs are stocked in numerous stores and online.  More information can be found on the website www.kellylove.com.  Kelly is also on Twitter @Kelly_Love_com.

"Image Credits: (Kelly Love’s Facebook page)"

As well as J.JS Lee, there is another South Korean designer currently becoming popular in the world of fashion. Jung Kuho, of the label Hexa, creates enduring, neo-classic clothing that is tailored, modern and semi-couture. Each garment is handmade and limited in production. Using a restrained and typically neutral colour palette, Jung’s designs are simple, yet artfully pleated, draped and layered to display interesting silhouettes, often reminiscent of origami.

           

After attending Parsons School of Design, Jung returned to Seoul where he became Creative Director of Samsung’s fashion division, overseeing the conglomerate’s license brands and Asian fashion lines. Jung then established his eponymous womenswear label in 2010. Hexa is Greek for six, which in turn, symbolises balance and harmony. Despite being based in Seoul, he showcases his collections every season in New York, as this city gave him the inspiration to become a fashion designer. 

Jung’s latest Spring and Summer 2012 collection balanced feminine and masculine aesthetics in its assortment of sporty jumpsuits and sexy, yet demure mini-dresses. Jung’s typical manipulation of fabric was apparent throughout, with pleating on loose skirts and clear construction on longline blazers and pristine shirts.

                    

Shades of blue were set off against white, black and muted burgundy, while an inspiring and unusual print of military medals formed the pieces of note. In particular, the final maxi dress was exquisite and three dimensional in Jung’s manipulation of patterned fabric.

More information at www.hexabykuho.com.  "Image Credits: (www.nymag.com)"